Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
Where I Want to Be, Via Bill Bryson
With so many work projects occupying my time, I haven't been able to indulge in pleasure reading as much as I would wish. Luckily, Bill Bryson has proved to be the perfect read for one who doesn't have, say, an entire afternoon to devote to the perusal of a book. Notes from a Small Island features little vignettes of the author's experiences in Britain, and I still feel like I'm able to fully grasp the essence of the text even if I only read a few pages while eating lunch or a short chapter before turning out the lights for bed.
{Tangential aside: has anybody noticed how difficult this is to achieve with a long novel? For me at least, it's impossible to truly immerse myself in a book like David Copperfield if I can only read small bits here and there. Detailed narratives demand a reader's attention, and if that's not something I'm able to give, I'm doomed to failure -- by which I mean, I set the book aside until a time with fewer distractions presents itself. Thoughts?}
Anyway, Bill Bryson immediately charmed with his description of first arriving in England. He fully captured the excitement, the air of possiblity permeating the atmosphere of one who finally sets foot on a long-desired travel destination. I found myself nodding in agreement as he shares his experience on pg. 15:
Everything that lay before me was new and mysterious and exciting in a way you can't imagine. England was full of words I'd never heard before -- streaky bacon, short back and sides, Belisha beacon, serviettes, high tea, ice cream cornet. I didn't know how to pronounce scone or pasty or Towcester or Slough, I had never heard of Tesco's, Perthshire or Denbighshire, council houses, Morecambe and Wise, railway cuttings, Christmas crackers, bank holidays, seaside rock, milk floats, trunk calls, Scotch eggs, Morris Minors, or Poppy Day. For all I knew, when a car had an L-plate on the back of it, it indicated that it was being driven by a leper. I was positively radiant with ignorance. The simplest transactions were a mystery to me. I saw a man in a newsagent's ask for "twenty Number Six" and receive cigarettes, and presumed for a long time afterward that everything was ordered by number in a newsagent's, like in a Chinese takeaway. I sat for half an hour in a pub before I realized that you had to fetch your own order, then tried the same thing in a tearoom and was told to sit down.
The tearoom lady called me love. All the shop ladies called me love and most of the men called me mate. I hadn't been here twelve hours and already they loved me. And everyone ate the way I did. This was truly exciting. For years I'd been the despair of my mother because as a left-hander I politely but resolutely declined to eat the American way -- grasping the fork in your left hand to steady the food while cutting, then transferring it to your right hand to lift the food to your mouth. It seemed ridiculously cumbersome, and here suddenly was a whole country that ate the way I did. And people drove on the left! This was paradise. Before the day was half over, I knew that this was where I wanted to be.
Isn't that lovely? It perfectly encapsulates the appeal of the novel and that simultaneous warm feeling of familiarity when you find that, though you've come from far away and know so little, you've found something of yourself as well.
I remember flying into Heathrow all by myself, a scary venture as it was the first time I had traveled anywhere alone. I apprehensively collected my luggage, bought my first Tube ticket and boarded the train. To an American who had never traveled outside the country before, I'm not sure anything was more perplexing than hearing a voice inform me, 'This train is for Cockfosters.'
What the hell was a Cockfoster?! And why was the Underground catering to their transportation needs?
Despite the confused nature of my thoughts, I walked from the Tube station to my new flat utterly content. Everything was new, and yet I felt perfectly at home, like I was coming back to a place I had always known but somehow forgotten.
Have any of your travels have produced similar sentiments? Have any of you read Bill Bryson's travel memoirs? I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Labels:
Bill Bryson,
Books,
English Life,
Travel
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Her Fearful Symmetry: When a Setting Steals the Show
'What is more basic than the need to be known? It is the entirety of intimacy, the elixir of love, this knowing.'
Betting on Audrey Niffenegger's second novel was a gamble. Readers whose taste and judgment I admire both loved and loathed Her Fearful Symmetry. In the end, the pull of a Neo-Victorian ghost story set in and around a historical London cemetery was too strong for me to resist.
Unfortunately this gamble didn't pay off. Oh, I wanted so badly to like it, to love it even, to sing its praises to readers all around. I tried, I really tried, but Her Fearful Symmetry left me feeling cold and indifferent.
As seen in the author's wildly popular debut novel The Time Traveler's Wife, Niffenegger's writing has a mystical quality. It draws you in and almost makes you feel as though you're floating about the narrative, just as Elspeth's ghost flits around the London flat she's left to her twin nieces, and every once in a while I'd come across a phrase that stunned me (see above).
But a novel needs more than pretty prose to work as a whole. It needs compelling characters, and in this aspect Niffenegger failed to live up to her authorial potential. The Time Traveler's Wife had me rooting for its protagonists within moments of opening the pages. With all their strengths and flaws, I fell in love with Clare and Henry as quickly as they fell in love with each other. Full engagement with a single character in Her Fearful Symmetry eluded me.
Somewhere I heard the novel described as a testament to the enduring power of love. If by love one means supreme selfishness, deceit and possession, then yes, love abounds in the world of Her Fearful Symmetry. Every relationship, both familial and romantic, seemed twisted and warped to such an extent that it put me off the text as a whole. The majority of the characters chased after the travesty of intimacy. The semblance of love masked the dishonesty and secrecy that underpinned the narrative. That any character professed to have captured this intangible 'knowing' left me baffled. The so-called twists, which any observant reader will see coming a mile away, only enhanced my antipathy. All in all, Her Fearful Symmetry left a bitter taste in my mouth.
Highgate Cemetery is the saving grace in this novel. Established in 1839, the North London cemetery houses the graves of several notable figures: George Eliot, George Henry Lewes, Karl Marx, Ellen Wood, Stella Gibbons, and many members of the Rossetti and Dickens families, among others.
Niffenegger did her research on Highgate Cemetery -- she volunteered as a tour guide in preparation for the novel -- and it shows. For a place that houses the dead, Highgate is teeming with life. The vivid descriptions of this famous Victorian site, infused with a Gothic atmosphere, make Highgate Cemetery a character in its own right. Indeed, it's the star of the show. The sections in which the author takes the reader on a virtual tour, providing an informative and engrossing history of Highgate, were far and away my favorite bits of Her Fearful Symmetry. If only Niffenegger had given Highgate Cemetery its own story and cast aside these unsavory characters! Still, Highgate's presence made the writer's sophomore effort worth reading for me and were almost enough to make me enjoy the text as a whole.
Almost.
Methinks I see a visit to Highgate Cemetery in my future, and I'm also keen to read up on its fascinating history. I'll be sure to stop by the next time I'm in London. It's wonderful to see so many work to preserve this site of Victorian cultural significance!
Betting on Audrey Niffenegger's second novel was a gamble. Readers whose taste and judgment I admire both loved and loathed Her Fearful Symmetry. In the end, the pull of a Neo-Victorian ghost story set in and around a historical London cemetery was too strong for me to resist.
Unfortunately this gamble didn't pay off. Oh, I wanted so badly to like it, to love it even, to sing its praises to readers all around. I tried, I really tried, but Her Fearful Symmetry left me feeling cold and indifferent.
As seen in the author's wildly popular debut novel The Time Traveler's Wife, Niffenegger's writing has a mystical quality. It draws you in and almost makes you feel as though you're floating about the narrative, just as Elspeth's ghost flits around the London flat she's left to her twin nieces, and every once in a while I'd come across a phrase that stunned me (see above).
But a novel needs more than pretty prose to work as a whole. It needs compelling characters, and in this aspect Niffenegger failed to live up to her authorial potential. The Time Traveler's Wife had me rooting for its protagonists within moments of opening the pages. With all their strengths and flaws, I fell in love with Clare and Henry as quickly as they fell in love with each other. Full engagement with a single character in Her Fearful Symmetry eluded me.
Somewhere I heard the novel described as a testament to the enduring power of love. If by love one means supreme selfishness, deceit and possession, then yes, love abounds in the world of Her Fearful Symmetry. Every relationship, both familial and romantic, seemed twisted and warped to such an extent that it put me off the text as a whole. The majority of the characters chased after the travesty of intimacy. The semblance of love masked the dishonesty and secrecy that underpinned the narrative. That any character professed to have captured this intangible 'knowing' left me baffled. The so-called twists, which any observant reader will see coming a mile away, only enhanced my antipathy. All in all, Her Fearful Symmetry left a bitter taste in my mouth.
Highgate Cemetery is the saving grace in this novel. Established in 1839, the North London cemetery houses the graves of several notable figures: George Eliot, George Henry Lewes, Karl Marx, Ellen Wood, Stella Gibbons, and many members of the Rossetti and Dickens families, among others.
Niffenegger did her research on Highgate Cemetery -- she volunteered as a tour guide in preparation for the novel -- and it shows. For a place that houses the dead, Highgate is teeming with life. The vivid descriptions of this famous Victorian site, infused with a Gothic atmosphere, make Highgate Cemetery a character in its own right. Indeed, it's the star of the show. The sections in which the author takes the reader on a virtual tour, providing an informative and engrossing history of Highgate, were far and away my favorite bits of Her Fearful Symmetry. If only Niffenegger had given Highgate Cemetery its own story and cast aside these unsavory characters! Still, Highgate's presence made the writer's sophomore effort worth reading for me and were almost enough to make me enjoy the text as a whole.
Almost.
Methinks I see a visit to Highgate Cemetery in my future, and I'm also keen to read up on its fascinating history. I'll be sure to stop by the next time I'm in London. It's wonderful to see so many work to preserve this site of Victorian cultural significance!
Labels:
Books,
Neo-Victorian,
Travel,
Victorians
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
The Charles Dickens Museum, Vol. II
Precisely two millennia ago, or so it seems, I posted the first of a two-part series chronicling my visit to the Charles Dickens Museum on Doughty Street. Since my Achilles' Heel is procrastination, the concluding post is only now just arriving. Tut, tut.
As someone whose passion for books is, ironically, beyond words, visiting a site of literary significance is such a special time for me. They are my Mecca. Moving about the intimate spaces where beloved authors lived and wrote is a transcendent experience. I often imagine that the ghost of the writer in question lingers behind, looking upon the visitors whose lives he has touched with his words.
What would Dickens think of the fuss made over him today? Considering he was well known and popular during the Victorian period, part of me thinks he'd be used to the attention. The other part can't help but feel that even Charlie D. would be amazed at the growth and endurance of his authorial celebrity. Would he feel mortified knowing strangers were looking over his commode and other personal belongings? I would!
Here's a glimpse of my time spent exploring Dickens's home on 48 Doughty Street. Located in the lovely Bloomsbury neighborhood in London, the museum warrants a visit from any Dickensian fanatic...
Here I am, in Charlie D's foyer
A Christmas garland festoons the banister
Personal letters line the hall
I believe this one was sent to Dickens's illustrator George Cruikshank
A collection of author photographs
The drawing room was decorated for Christmas, Victorian style
I'm digging the furniture, but what's up with the creepy mask?
I love the Victorian Christmas crackers
Mr and Mrs Fezziwig from A Christmas Carol
Painted by Dickens's daughter Katey, born at this house
Special exhibit on Dickens as an orator
His personal reading copy of Sikes and Nancy
Notes added for emphasis (and when Dickens expects a laugh?)
Oliver! exhibit
Nancy's costume from the musical production
Commode owned by the family
where Dickens presumably sat his royal bottom
The table which saw Dickens's last written words
Priceless!
My favourite item in the giftshop: Charles Dickens Action Figure
Complete with quill pen and removable hat!
Saying farewell...
The view from Doughty Street
Ah, what a fantastic visit. I look forward to stopping by again in the future!
P.S. Vol. I of my Charles Dickens experience.
Labels:
Authors,
Dickens,
Literary Pilgrimage,
London,
Travel
Friday, February 10, 2012
The Charles Dickens Museum, Vol. I
It occurred to me when I wrote about the Dickens Bicentenary that I had yet to share my experience visiting the Charles Dickens Museum when I went on a mini-break to London last Christmas. So, in honour of this quintessential author on his 200th birthday, I would like to take you on a little tour of his former home on Doughty Street, London.
In hindsight, I explored the museum at the perfect moment. I was finally starting to comprehend of the brilliance of Dickens novels and was consequently more open minded to embracing what I saw there. Visiting just three days after Christmas, I wasn't faced with crowds of tourists. Victorian Christmas decorations (particularly in the drawing room) brought a holiday atmosphere to the home of one who wrote so effectively about Christmas and the spirit of giving. It was a lovely touch. Mostly, however, I greatly appreciated that the museum was quiet and peaceful, allowing me to have a personal experience with these Dickensian relics.
So, on the with the show...
Welcome to 48 Doughty Street!
The entrance hall
Pause for a self-portrait
Down to the cellar...
For a view of the kitchen
Bars from the Marshalsea
where Dickens's father was imprisoned for debt
Bust of the young author
Looking onto Doughty Street from Dickens's study
His paper knife
Late photo of Catherine Dickens -- poor woman!
Catherine's handkerchiefs
Room at the back of the house
This page from a manuscript was accompanied by a note
explaining that Dickens lived in a time when there were no computers
News flash!
A creative representation of the literary imagination
Signatures
This concludes part one of the tour. Part two shall follow shortly. In the meantime, have a wonderful weekend!
Friday, November 18, 2011
Bicycling in Paris
Photos courtesy of Oh, Happy Day
I have always loved the idea of bicycling as a means of transportation in European cities. I toyed around with the idea of renting a bike from the university when I lived in Leeds but ultimately decided the city's hills would be too much for my out-of-shape thighs. This post from the blog Oh, Happy Day has made me think I was missing out on a fantastic means of exploring one's city. And wouldn't Paris be an amazing city to explore?! Just thinking about coasting past monuments like the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame makes my skin tingle! The post's explanation of Paris's bike rental system sounds as though bicycling would be an easy and interactive way of enjoying the Parisian sites. I would, however, make one alteration to this scenario. Flowers are very well and all, but that bike basket looks like the perfect means of toting a baguette and some cheese. Or some pastries. Food trumps flowers every time in my book.
P.S. When the lease was up on their San Francisco apartment, the couple behind Oh, Happy Day decided to pack up their two young sons and move to France for the year. How cool is that? I love reading about their perspective on Parisian life.
Labels:
Photography,
Travel
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Missing Leeds
I've been missing my Leeds this week. I'm missing walking around the beautiful buildings on campus (example above), cups of tea at the student cafe, long conversations with friends at the pub, munching on Cadbury's crunchie rocks, etc., etc., etc. I even miss the wuthering! (Kind of.) I originally had plans to return to Leeds for the graduation ceremony next month, but now that those have fallen through I am feeling that longing to go back more keenly than usual. For now, I shall look forward to visits in the future and take a walk down memory lane with a few photos.
Labels:
English Life,
Leeds,
Travel
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
The National Book Fair in York
Ages ago I wrote a post about attending the National Book Fair in York. This truly was a book worm's paradise. With texts ranging in price from a few quid to well over 1,000 pounds, there was a wide variety of books -- a plethora of gems to be found. Now (a full light year later) I'd love to share some photos of a few of those treasures. I could tell from the strange glances that the vendors thought it a bit odd for somebody to photograph themselves with the books they had an offer. I will only say that if I had had sufficient funds, I would have bought them. All of them. Unfortunately, my student budget meant that I had to find contentment in coming away with photographs instead of the real deal.
A copy of Matilda signed by Roald Dahl
Ooh, I would have gladly shelled out the 250 quid for this
First edition of The Hound of the Baskervilles
If I remember correctly, it was nearly 1,000 pounds
This antiquarian political print cracked me up
Ana with a first edition of The Vampyre by John Polidori
A signed copy of The Amber Spyglass
I did see the complete His Dark Materials trilogy
All three were first editions, all were signed by Philip Pullman
It could have been mine for the very low price of 13,000 pounds
A teeny tiny prayer book
Sarah with a gorgeous copy of Pride and Prejudice
Be still, my heart! A first edition of Villette
I just love Charlotte
Ana with a Winnie the Pooh text (can't remember which one now)
signed by A.A. Milne
A first edition of Virginia Woolf's Flush -- only fifty quid!
I nearly bought this one, but I refrained
Until this day I hadn't grasped the danger antiquarian books pose to a compulsive book buyer. After a visit to Waterstone's/Barnes and Noble or a cyber-spree on Amazon, I can emerge with a large pile of brand new books without making a noticable dent in my wallet. But one or two purchases from an antiquarian bookstore, and one is potentially bereft of hundreds (if not thousands) of pounds. Nevertheless, I fully intend on returning to York's bibliophile heaven with money to spend.
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